March 2026

After a few blissful days of R&R in Hawke’s Bay, we start getting twitchy—turns out too much relaxing isn’t really our thing. With hiking boots calling, we head back across New Zealand to the central Manawatū–Whanganui region.

This is the land of Tongariro National Park and the Whanganui River—two absolute heavyweights when it comes to natural beauty. Tongariro, New Zealand’s oldest national park, is also a dual World Heritage site, recognised not only for its dramatic volcanic landscapes but also for its deep Māori cultural and spiritual significance. It’s home to three active volcanoes: Tongariro, Ngauruhoe (better known as Mount Doom from The Lord of the Rings), and Ruapehu.

We base ourselves at Raetihi Holiday Park, on the sleepy southwestern edge of the park, and get straight into exploring. The most famous walk here is the Tongariro Crossing, but having done it a few years ago—during covid when visitor numbers were blissfully low—we decide to give it a miss this time. These days it can see over 1,000 people a day, which is about 995 more than our ideal hiking crowd. For us, the magic of hiking is that feeling of having the world to ourselves, so we set out in search of quieter trails.

First up: the Tama Lakes Track. A 17.6 km return hike from Whakapapa Village, it takes us past the ever-photogenic Taranaki Falls and through a landscape that feels equal parts alpine postcard and lunar experiment. With Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe looming in the background, we wander through tussock and volcanic terrain to reach two ancient crater lakes. It’s a relatively easy walk, and even the final scree climb feels surprisingly manageable—especially compared to Fanthams Peak, which has clearly toughened us up.

The next day promises sunshine, so we swap hiking boots for paddles and head out onto the Whanganui River. At 270 km long, it’s not just impressive in size—it also holds immense cultural significance for local Māori, who regard it as an ancestor. In fact, in 2017 it became the first river in the world to be legally recognised as a living person. Not your average paddle, then.

We opt for a one-day trip with Bridge to Nowhere Tours, conveniently based at our campsite. After driving to Pipiriki, we hop on a jet boat that rockets us 21 km upstream through a series of rapids—an adventure in itself—before dropping us at the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge, where our canoe awaits. Even better: we have the river entirely to ourselves. For the next four hours, we drift and paddle downstream through pristine bush, deep gorges, and the occasional cave, with just the sound of water and birdsong (and the odd rapid to keep things interesting).

Rain is forecast for the following day, so we aim for something shorter and head up Ohakune Mountain Road to check out Waitonga Falls—the highest waterfall in the park at 39 metres. The weather, however, has other ideas. Instead of rain, we get sunshine on Ruapehu’s southern slopes, and when we reach the falls, we decide to keep going. Naturally. We press on to Blyth Hut, leaving the crowds behind, crossing rivers, and climbing through beautiful red beech forest. Apart from a brief five-minute shower just before the hut—as if the weather wanted to remind us who’s boss—we stay dry all day. We’re starting to notice a pattern: south of Ruapehu often seems to mean sunshine.

Back in Raetihi, we discover there’s no pub—slightly alarming—but quickly recover by heading to the local Cosmopolitan Club. It turns out to be even better. Packed with friendly locals, it’s the kind of place where you’re welcomed like a regular within minutes. A couple of games of pool, a few beers, and some solid burgers later, we’re fully restored.

With legs revived (more or less), we tackle the Lake Surprise track. Starting 15 km up Ohakune Mountain Road, it’s part of the Round the Mountain trail and, thankfully, far less crowded than the park’s headline acts. In fact, we see just two other people all day—perfect. The five-hour return walk begins with a descent (always suspicious), winding through volcanic terrain and across numerous streams, with Ruapehu as a constant backdrop. After passing Mangaturuturu Hut and braving an unbridged river crossing, we climb steadily to Lake Surprise—a pristine, hidden gem that absolutely lives up to its name. One of our favourite hikes so far.

The next day calls for something gentler, so we opt for an easy four-hour return walk to Waihohonu Hut on the Northern Circuit. The original hut here dates back to 1904, built for early tourists arriving by coach and later used by pioneering ski parties—including the first alpine expedition in 1913. It was replaced in 1968 but has been preserved as a historic hut since 1979. A nice reminder that people have been exploring—and slightly overestimating their fitness—in this area for well over a century.

Next stop: the coast.