February 2018

Date: 17/12/2017

Position: Santiago de Cuba, CUBA

We are in Cuba!

Lots has happened since our last update in September from Trinidad – a trip north via Grenada to say hi to friends Jack and Fizzy on Carpe Diem, and onto Martinique to stock the boat up – one would have thought there are no shops anywhere else in the world the way the crew was shopping – 5 trips to the supermarket over 3 days and poor Ari was lower in the water than ever...

A good weather window saw the crew preparing Ari for her longest trip in a while and off we went under my expert guidance - 460 miles to Bonaire, where we arrived 3.75 days later with the fridges and freezers fully stocked with fresh fish. We had light winds and calm sea for the majority of the time and a full moon to brighten the way at night. It was a good opportunity to get practice with our Wingaker (spinnaker) again and we flew it for most of the trip. Tim, Gayle, Gem and Pip on Wild Bird, as well as Dutch crew Ronald and Nicol on Fairy Queen where already in Bonaire after a layup in neighbouring Curacao and we enjoyed many fun evenings together catching up.

Bonaire is famous for two things – diving and kitesurfing – so Carla was off diving every few days and Alex decided it was time to cash in his 50th birthday present and went to learn how to kitesurf. Apparently it’s as wet as diving and he was properly exhausted after the 3 day course, BUT the old fool managed to kite out and return to the beach under his own steam – still lots to learn, but since he also bought a set of equipment, he’ll be off practicing whenever he can no doubt.

Plans this season were to sail to Columbia from Bonaire, but after I had a closer study of the wind and weather patterns I changed my mind – Cuba here we come. Wild Bird came to the same conclusion, so we decided to sail together to Cuba, with a short stop in Haiti on the way.

We decided to stop off at Isle de Vache on the south west coats of Haiti for a few days to wait for a suitable weather window to cross the windward passage to Cuba.  The sail was brisk to say the least and we covered the 570 miles in 3 days and 4 hours. For UK sailors – that equates to a channel crossing to Cherbourg every 7.5 hours...... rather than the usual 12 or so. FAST!!

Fairy Queen left a day after us and arrived the next day after having engine trouble on the way. Contact via SSB radio and sat communication to a friend of Wild Bird in the UK enabled the crew to get it partly fixed and the engine running.

Wild Bird entered Port Morgan anchorage in Isle de Vache just ahead of us and as we approached we wondered why they had several fenders out on each side. It transpired that they were in fact local boys in dug out canoes holding on whilst Wild Bird manoeuvred to anchor. We suffered a similar onslaught of boat boys clinging to the side of the boat, wanting work, clothes, fishing gear, rope, sails, food and so on. We would often have 3 or 4 guys at the same time and on some days, half the morning was spent tending to the visitors. Although they were very polite and friendly it slowly became tiresome and the demand was too great for the supply of things we had with us. We also brought some materials for the local school, which were very well received. On only one occasion did someone actually offer us something in return for the things we gave them. While we felt good about trying to help people, the lack of any comeback in the form of fruit or fish for example was a little disappointing and with the benefit of hindsight, we should have done things a little different. Yes the people are poor, but it costs nothing to collect a few mangoes or coconuts to offer as a thank you for a load of fishing gear and marks the difference between a beggar and a trader. It was a little one sided and that left us with a sour aftertaste.

Carla and Gayle decided to hike to the market accompanied by two ‘guides’. It was about 4km each way and as it had rained heavily that morning the path was very muddy. They resorted to walking barefoot in the end. The market was no better and was a complete mud fest, although that didn’t stop the locals and everything was for sale from live goats, pigs and chickens to clothing and fish traps and rather dodgy fruit and vegetables. They had to change dollars for Haiti Goud and got ripped off on the exchange rate and then on everything they bought – one price for locals and another for us. Still they came back with $5 worth of dodgy fruit and vegetables. What appeared to be mange tout were hard and stringy that no amount of boiling could transform!

As Cuban rules state that arrivals from Haiti must be put on Cholera watch for an unspecified period, we decided to come to an ‘arrangement’ with the local official and save ourselves the trouble by not checking into Haiti. It worked out cheaper than checking in as well.

Thankfully the weather played ball and we all left after a few days  - Fairy Queen for Jamaica, and it was Cuba for us and Wild Bird.

A trouble free 180 mile trip saw us arrive in Santiago de Cuba early afternoon after a day and a half at sea. Entry into the harbour was straight forward and the check in process, complete with a visit from a doctor, a boat search by customs and a few forms for the port captain, was not as complicated as we feared. Everybody was polite, friendly and correct – no ‘arrangements’ here! We stayed on the dock for one night and then moved into the anchorage and were pleasantly surprised to see the Danish crew on Johanna whom we last saw in July in Trinidad.

First impressions: Everybody friendly, nobody approaches the boat, great anchorage but things feel a little strange. Communism does weird things to a place and we are all constantly confused by the system and it’s results. Two versions of the Cuban Peso – one for the locals (CUP) and one for visitors (CUC), a marina fee of 30 CUC a night ($35), but a bus fare of 1 CUP (4 cents) for a group of 4 people to get into town, internet only in hotspots in town, with the use of a card you need to buy are just a few of the things you need to get used to initially.

BUT. the Cubans are great people, never mind their political system. Friendly, open, welcoming and they don’t want something for nothing – a great change after Haiti. The ‘supermarkets’ in town are not as we know them. One of them only sold stock cubes and another only washing powder – that was all.... Any imported goods are very expensive and priced in CUC and there is very little choice available. We were very pleased that we had stocked up fully in Martinique and Bonaire. Fruit and vegetables are readily available though in the market and a priced in CUP per pound. It’s the same price for everyone and very, very cheap!

The trade embargo has left the country without some of the basic things – like rope for a fisherman is either not available or is unaffordable. Any western items e.g. a pair of jeans, are priced in CUC and equivalent to western prices which makes them completely unaffordable for the majority of Cubans. The American trade embargoes have really taken their toll and with Trump in power who knows what will happen in the future.

The crew spent a couple of days exploring Santiago de Cuba, a bustling town full of 1950s American cars and their Russian counterparts and the fumes that accompany them! Music poured onto the streets and squares with people dancing and men playing chess in the shade of the trees. Many of the local town buses are converted trucks that would be livestock transporters in the UK!

The crew are really loving Cuba!

Date: 30/12/2017

Position: Cayo Algadon Grande, CUBA, 21 º 06’,467’’N, 78 º 43’,535’’W

After a few days in Santiago we sailed west to Portillo where we arrived at night. The harbour master in Santiago couldn’t check us out the day before (not allowed) and with a 75 miles distance, night arrival was the only option, but the anchorage was well marked and both boats made it in ok. Morning light revealed a beautiful, really well protected anchorage.  Guardia Frontera was already waiting on the pontoon for the obligatory paperwork and boat search but then we were free to go.

A couple of people were waiting for us and asked if we wanted some fresh vegetables, took us to their house and offered vegetables, fruit and fresh pork. When asked about the price, they didn’t want any money, but wanted to trade for clothes, fishing gear, ropes etc. So we scoured both boats and gave them a couple of bags of things. They told us they were slaughtering a goat on Christmas day and we got two whole legs which we ate a few days later – absolutely delicious. Did a couple of walks to a water reservoir, complete with waterfall and swimming pool, talked to locals (it was xmas and people were out and about, having a good time), bought bananas, fruits and coconut water for two boats for 2 dollars, a dress for the girl and three bars of soap. Everybody happy..What a nice place!!

Alex donated his old cordless drill and a few drill bits to the fisherman, as these items are not available in Cuba and they were struggling to fix their boats. The biggest smile and a massive hug was the response – Merry Christmas my friend!!

Xmas dinner of roast chicken (with homemade stuffing) was had onboard and soon it was time to move on – we had to specify a departure date when arriving – which was good, otherwise we might have stayed there too long – really liked the place.

A day sail got us the 35 miles to Cabo Cruz, the gateway to the 200miles of deserted islands on the south coast of Cuba, the Los Jardines del Reina, and after completing the formalities (again), a passing fisherman offered lobster. Delivery was by snorkelling 100 meters from his rowing boat (presumably to avoid being seen by the Guardia Frontera). After some negotiation Alex scored 3 good size lobsters for 5 dollars and half a bottle of rum.

Early start the next day (4am) to cover the 65 miles to the next anchorage, Cayo Grenada. We had great sailing conditions and managed to cover the distance in 9 hours, allowing for an arrival with the sun still high. This is important to be able to see reefs, shallows etc as once it is after 3 pm, with the sun against you, nothing under water is visible anymore. Since we are now in waters that are shallow, dotted with small islands and reefs and unproven chart accuracy, this is important. The team is operating from 3 different sets of electronic charts, plus a paper version, but it soon emerged that the Navionics charts are most accurate and seemingly can be relied upon. What a relief. This is uninhabited territory, shallow and navigation needs to be accurate as help is far away. So cruising in company with Wild Bird is a bonus for both of us.

The whole section of coast from Santiago de Cuba to Cabo Cruz and along the outside of Los Jardines del Reina is renowned for its excellent fishing. All that Carla managed to catch was one small mahi mahi and a cold!

Cayo Grenada is in the Golfo de Guacanayaba which we entered via the Cabeza del Este channel. It is a beautiful anchorage and together with Wild Bird we managed to catch two lobsters on the reef. In the afternoons the wind stopped completely and it was so silent you could hear a pin drop. The island didn’t sport any proper beaches, just mangroves and a few bits of sand at low water which made it difficult for the dogs on Wild Bird, although Gem managed a partially water submerged no 2! After two nights we decided to move on  and make our way via channels that navigate the shallow waters for over 40 miles through Golfo de Ana Maria to Cayo Algadon Grande. Footage from a youtube video and all our other information suggested we could do it, and we did. It was great flat water sailing. At times through passages that were a mere 100 meters wide (sounds a lot, but if you are on your 19 tonnes home and cannot afford to run aground...) and with current with us we were doing over 8 knots. The forward looking sonar on Ari B that shows the depth of the water as much as 60 to 70 meters ahead is a useful tool and for the first time in 4 years we have it on all day.

Since we entered Los Jardines del Reina we have seen no other sailing vessels (actually none since Santiago) and only one small fishing boat. It is very remote and few boats sail through this area making it a pleasant change from some of the crowded anchorages in the Caribbean. The anchorages are fantastic – large, well protected and good holding.

Cayo Algadon Grande has plenty of small beaches, there are lots of reefs for lobster hunting and small stingrays skate along the shallows. It’s a lot cooler here, including the water temperature which is a chilly 26 degrees – wetsuits are out in force J

New Years Eve was celebrated on Wild Bird. I stayed guarding Ari – those woofs are very cute but would rip me to shreds! The crews had ‘surf and turf’ for dinner (scampi made with lobster and mini beefburgers with fresh homemade bread rolls), all washed down with a bottle of champagne – Very decadent and very Yummy they told me. The lightweights didn’t make midnight again this year though and were tucked in bed by 10pm.

Date: 03/01/2018

Position: Cayo Cuervo, CUBA, 21 º 04’,55’’N, 78º57’,484’’W

After a couple of days hunting, the wind was good for the 18 mile sail west to Cayo Cuervo. As the name suggests, it’s a curved reef, providing near total shelter, and once inside it’s totally calm, the crew slept like babies – I don’t need sleep, so it makes no difference to me.... Entry was via a wide channel that only leaves 1.9 meters under the keel – progress over the bar was slow and careful!

There’s was a lovely beach (we found footprints, so someone else must have been here recently) and a reef about a mile away that was loaded with lobster – the two crews scored 6 lobsters in one hour! There was also a lovely sandy spit that was perfect for the Wild Bird woofs and for Alex to practice his kite surfing on the one afternoon when the wind picked up. Unfortunately the wind always increased to the required 20 knots overnight and dropped in the day! A couple of northerly cold fronts meant that the temperature was much cooler than any of us are used to. The wind was especially chilly and the sea temperature dropped to 23 degrees..brrrr. Sheets and even a blanket at night were required!

4 more lobsters the next day and freezers fully stocked again!

Date: 07/01/2018

Position: Cayo Cinco Balas, CUBA, 21 º 02’,343’’N, 79º19’,064’’W

Over the last few days the forecast has highlighted a low pressure system in Florida, resulting in brisk northerly winds for 2-3 days. Since we had been in Cayo Cuervo for a few days and this anchorage also promised good protection, the team sailed down here on the 5th of Jan, scoring 3 smallish tuna on the way (plus 2 Barracudas – don’t like those so they go back). On arrival we discover that the inner anchorage (with good protection) was more shallow than the charts suggested and the outer area was all we could access. Even here, at low tide, we have 30cm under the keel, 0.4 miles away from land.

It’s blowing 30 to 35 knots , gusting higher(force 7 to 8) and we are lying to 40 meters of chain in 2.7 meters of water – it’s windy, and reasonably comfortable – but we should have stayed in the last place. Not much to do until the wind abates apart from keeping a constant anchor watch....

Boy was it cold! The temperature dropped to 20C both air and water and if it’s blowing 35 knots, that is COLD! Socks, joggers, fleeces and hats were dug out from the bottom of the drawers to keep the crew warm – I was fine with my artificial fur and Pip to snuggle up to! After 48 hours the wind finally dropped and the weather improved, so the crew donned wetsuits and went hunting –  2 hours and 7 lobsters later, dinner was sorted. Since lobster is so plentiful, they have to come up with new recipes. So far they have had lobster grilled with garlic butter, deep fried scampi style, lobster salad like a prawn cocktail, lobster curry, lobster risotto and lobster pizza as well as lobster sandwiches  – any other ideas??  Carla is in heaven.....

Date: 10/01/2018

Today it was supposed to be calm and fair, so the team planned to move on – but yet again, it’s blowing 25 knots, gusting 35 to 40 in squalls – the weather forecast was wrong and we are sitting tight – not a bad thing, as day before yesterday a walk on the beach supplied the crew with close to a hundred sandfly bites each – and they really itch – so much so that the crew did not sleep last night...... Rather annoyingly Tim’s bites don’t itch at all and have practically disappeared!

We have 4 days on our visas left and there’s another coldfront threatening in 3 days time, so we’ll move tomorrow to Cienfegos and renew our visas – planning to use it as a base to explore more of Cuba on land.

Date: 28/01/2018

Position: Cayo Largo, CUBA, 21 º 36’,931’’N, 81º34’,725’’W

So, off we went the next day to sail to Cienfuegos, a large and well protected harbour on the central south coast of Cuba, and the crews were looking forward to spending some time in a town, stocking up on food, renewing visas etc, and wanted to make this town a base for a trip to Havana.

We arrived approx 15.00 and Wild Bird called the marina to announce our arrival. We were turned away, as the marina was full and the adjacent anchorage was “closed”. No reason given. I was barking mad and the crew, who could almost taste the mohitos and hear the salsa, had very glum faces as we turned around with only 2 eggs, 1 tomato and a hairy potato left. Since there are precious little anchorages on this stretch of coast and we had to sail 80 miles overnight to the distant Cayo Largo, one of the areas’ tourist attractions. Well, it’s pretty here, but if you planned on a town and end up in the sticks, that’s not so nice.

To make matters more complicated, there’s only one shop here, and when we arrived, they didn’t have milk, beer, eggs, vegetables, fruit etc – you get the picture – it did improve a bit, but it’s hit and miss in the shop. And the only way to get here is by plane. After a couple of days of feeling sorry for themselves a new plan was hatched – tickets bought and a trip to Havana was on the cards. We parked Ari B in the marina and off the crew went to the capital – I was left on guard duty.

Sadly we parted company with our friends on Wild Bird. We had a fantastic time cruising in their company and hope to do so again in the near future.

Alex tells me that Havana was great, a fascinating mix of old and new, breathtaking grandeur and architecture mixed with crumbling infrastructure – it’s fantastic and strange at the same time. Pictures will better convey this contrast than words. After a couple of days in Havana they took the bus (8 hours due to loads of hotel pickups!!!) to a small town called Trinidad, a UNESCO site. Nice modern bus though courtesy of the Chinese. Unfortunately the first day was wiped out as Carla had an upset stomach, but the next day they went on a 4 hour horse riding trip in the valley. That night John Wayne and his wife went for dinner and again both had upset stomachs the next day! Thankfully the bus back to Havana did not stop at Cienfuegos and was only 5 hours. Back at the apartment in Havana they decided not to risk Cuban food hygiene again and bought provisions to eat in. The next couple of days were spent further exploring Havana and drinking beer and listening to great music at the brewery in Plaza Vieja.

We are all back together on Ari B now, at anchor in Cayo Largo and riding out one weather front after the other, wind rarely dropping below 20 knots sustained and often gusting 30. According to the forecast, this should last another 5 days before an improvement arrives.

So the crew is catching up on boat jobs while waiting for friend Thomas, who is in Cuba for 10 days and is coming to visit us. Let’s hope the weather improves by then!

And then we will be making our way back to Los Jardines del Reina to stock the freezers up with lobsters, (the things I do to keep the crew happy!), before heading to Jamaica.

Date: 11th January 22:00

Position: 30 miles west of Cabo Cruz, Cuba

We are doing 6 knots and the wind is ESE 20 knots. We are officially leaving Cuba, land of mohitos, lobster and salsa, and heading for Jamaica, land of Red Stripe, jerk chicken and reggae! The visit from Thomas went in a blink of an eye and before we knew it, we were on our own again. Time to leave, so we checked out of Cuba, complete with boat search by Customs to make sure no patriotic Cuban has found his way into our anchor-locker, looking for a ride to foreign lands (why is it that the superior Communist system tries to stop people from leaving, when the despicable enemy capitalists constantly try to stop people from entering their lands??)

For 2 months, we had been battered by coldfronts, with the associated northerly wind (good for going east), so of course the long range weather forecasts showed no coldfront for the next few weeks, and we had easterly winds for the foreseeable future (not so clever if you are trying to go East...., which we had to do in order to make Jamaica) – so we battled for a number of days to make the 200 miles or so east from Cayo Largo to Cabo Cruz until we could lay a course for Jamaica. Growl...... I even allowed for a stop in Cinco Balas so the crew could catch their lobsters!

In any case, we are expecting to arrive tomorrow morning and are looking forward to limitless internet, supermarkets that actually have something worth buying in them and a good time in Jamaica!

Ari B out

Captain Bonzo

Thomas & Carla. Cayo Largo