Date: 25th April 2016
Position: Terre de Haut, Les Saintes, 5 miles south of Guadeloupe
Hi Landfolk and Salty Sea Dogs,
Bonzo here, with the long overdue update. We are anchored in a beautiful bay, the wind is light, weather is great again after a few days of moisture rich air. 30 degrees C and not a cloud in the sky.
Rumour has it weather in the UK can’t compete, but I am not sure. My fur has grown a bit and I am sweating like only a stuffed dog can. Since there are a few newcomers to this publication, let me introduce myself, my name is Bonzo, I am the Captain of sailing yacht Ari B and I am a rather handsome white stuffed dog. And yes, I know all the associated jokes already..... . Stuffed rabbit Pip is my sidekick (named after the real dog Pip on Wild Bird that I have the secret hots for).
Last you heard from the crew of Ari B was from Little Harbour in the BVIs, after Louise and Iain left again for the UK.
After we recovered from a week’s charter, the wind was perfect for the 80 mile passage to St Maarten – normally a job for the engine, but I selected a good day and we managed to sail all the way.
Carla’s back problem (Sciatica), continued to cause trouble, so we stayed a week in Marigot, attended doctors and tried to book a scan to be sure of the cause. Waiting time 3 weeks, so we decided to chase after Wild Bird, who had left the BVIs a week before us. The weather conditions didn’t allow us to stop in Saba or Eustatia – both famous for excellent hiking, but since half the crew couldn’t walk anyway, it was no great loss.
We caught up with Wild Bird in St Kitts and spent a couple of days relaxing, after arriving on a non cruise ship day, meaning the skipper had to go to the airport to clear immigration – I sent Alex, since dogs aren’t that welcome at airports.... what a faff!
Then the racing started – Wild Bird and Ari B barrelling towards Montserrat, the famous island that suffered volcanic eruptions in 1995, 97, 2006 and 2010, which led to the island being pretty much shut down around the volcano area. We were set to explore the volcano, the covered cities and remaining villages, but spent a night at anchor that had us rolling out of bed. I was fine in my dog basket, but Carla and Alex didn’t sleep a minute, and after a short discussion in the morning, we decided to move on – BUT we did get brilliant views of the island from the sea as we sailed the length of Montserrat.
After another day’s racing we arrived in Guadeloupe in a small bay and the village of Deshaies.
Since this island is French, check in is done on a computer in a clothes shop, rather than the official customs and immigrations officers so many other islands favour – refreshing!!
A few days in harbour, with walks ashore and new friends aboard Casa Tu, Libertine and Maya – skippered by the father of famous single handed sailor Alex Thomson, also known for the stunts he pulls in the Hugo Boss advertisements.
While I enjoyed the visits of Wild Bird’s crew and their sexy dogs, Carla’s back/ leg became more of an issue and the crew was getting concerned whether she can carry on.
We then sailed via Pigeon Island with the Jacque Cousteau water park and it’s great snorkelling to Pointe a Pitre, where the crew hired a car to explore the island and do one of the famous water fall hikes. Unfortunately, Carla’s back didn’t like that one bit and while we decided to stay put for a rest, Wild Bird sailed to Dominica for the famous hikes that island has to offer.
After much deliberation, the crew decided to return to Antigua for the better airline connections and send Carla to the UK for a scan and treatment, so myself and Alex sailed Ari B to Antigua, with Carla resting most of the way, only snapping into action when a Mahi mahi bit and was landed.
So Carla was off to the UK, and Alex worked his way through the todo list, with regular updates from frosty UK. Long story short – after 4 weeks Carla returned, having been diagnosed with a disc bulge that presses on a nerve causing the pain – nothing “serious”, but very painful. She got an Epidural injection into her spine with steroids to help the healing, and while she is not 100% today, she is improving. As skipper, I’d like to express my deepest gratitude to Gayle from Wild Bird, who was tirelessly treating Carla throughout several months of pain. Wuff!!
While Ari B was waiting at Jolly Harbour in Antigua, Wild Bird, Hogfish, Ocean Hobo and Carpe Diem congregated in Antigua ready for the Antigua Classic Yacht Sailing week.
What a week – we all went up to Falmouth Harbour to watch the racing, attend the parties, scoop up some of the free bubbly and generally have a good time – while I was on board, guarding, the crew staggered from party to party and needed a rest after 5 days (I suggested more practice to Alex, but he doesn’t think that’s possible).
We also met up again with Mandi and Jemma on Skye. They not only completed their first Atlantic crossing this year but did it as a support boat for the Talisker Atlantic Rowing Challenge! That’s a long time at sea!
Suddenly it hit the crew – 6 weeks until they have to be in Tobago, out of the Hurricane belt, and due to Carla’s back issues, we had lost out on seeing some of the other islands. With a heavy heart we said goodbye to our friends, as we felt the need to explore some more before the summer break and the different lay-up plans meant we could no longer stay together.
Tim and Gayle sent us underway with a hearty bacon sandwich breakfast and many thanks to Chris for the demo and donation of the Hawaiian sling – once we master it, we WILL catch lobster , or ‘summer crab’ as Carla keeps calling them at the moment– will keep you posted J
We sailed in company to Guadeloupe with Ian and Linda from Ocean Hobo, on their way to Grenada for lay-up early May. Hope the rest of your passage was safe and enjoyable.
Many thanks to all the boats in Antigua for a great time together!! We really enjoyed it!
Xmas 2016 in Dominica?????
A big mahi mahi landed on the way to Guadeloupe has ensured we have lovely fresh fish for a few days and plenty more in the freezer. We caught both times on the Antigua/Guadeloupe passage so if you are heading that way make sure you have your lures out. Carla’s special lures, that I know she has made for some of you, work particularly well.
Les Saintes is really nice. It has a sleepy, almost Mediterranean feel to it. Many bays are full of buoys that you have to pay for but we have managed to find a nice anchor spot behind Tete Rouge that is not far from town and enables us to go hiking and explore the island. Yesterday we visited Fort Napolean and today we hiked on Morne Morel before dropping down to Baie de Pompierre for a well deserved swim. This is a really beautiful, protected bay but unfortunately anchoring is not allowed.
Few more days here then next stop Dominica.
Ari B out
Captain Bonzo
Les Saintes
Wild Bird sailing past Montserrat
Drinks on Wild Bird, Deshaies, Guadaloupe
Hiking, Deshaies, Guadaloupe
La Premiere waterfall, Guadaloupe
Antigua Classics
Les Saintes